Nikon Z6 - what do you think?

There's no doubt about it. Panasonic's AF is not in the same league as the others. They lack in AF what they don't in IQ.

 

It should be noted that the sync speed is dependent on multiple factors. One if of course the camera itself, where they claim what the body can sync at. The second is the light itself and lastly (and the least important factor) the trigger. Sometimes it can also be an issue with specific brands. Consider the example below.

An Elinchrom D-lite 4 (400w/s) kit is supposed to sync up to up to the camera's sync speed (usually 1/200 or 1/250) unless you use HS (High Sync). In reality here is what happens, at least in my country's version:

Canon (EOS R/5D Mk4) syncs at 1/250
Nikon (Nikon D750/850) syncs at 1/200
Sony (A7R2/3) syncs at 1/160

Panasonic had some triggering issues when I first paired the S1 and S1R with strobes. Issues persisted across 3 brands of strobes and 4 triggers. I did mention this to the local reps and they agreed that they had seen some issues as well.

Also IMHO the difference between 1/200 to 1/320 for sync speed is not as important as one would expect. Yes it does add some control to ambient exposure but not enough to be a bother.

 

One of the issues I faced with switching to MILCs is the absurd amount of AF points. This may be just me but even with the joystick or touch screen its just a chore to move the point around. This is something I appreciate about Nikon's newer AF system seen in the DSLR where they allow only a certain number of AF points as 'select-able'.

With regards to studio and all the time in the world. I assure you that, depending on genre, there is not going to be all the time in the world. I've had plenty of shoots where we were barely wrapping on time. That being said, I agree that it is a controlled environment and can be an almost ideal situation.

Now to Eye AF. I have used it extensively and my thoughts on it are as follows. As of 3rd gen it's far more reliable, now does that make it fool proof? No, it was slow to identify the eye and at times failed. With the introduction of the whole AI AF thing life became much better. This is because it can switch easily between different styles of AF when Eye AF fails.

The big issue with the system is that there is no way of selecting what you will focus on. That means any situation with more than one person in the frame will be an issue. As long as you don't rely on Eye AF to act as the be all, end all of AF then you are fine. It is just another way of focusing, nothing more and nothing less. They all have their places, just that this one is touted as some magical jack and master of all trades.

Brands tend to use Eye AF like phones use resolution. It's just a marketing point for them, one that photographers should take with a grain of salt. It doesn't help that almost all bloody Youtubers go on and on about it. One advantage Sony has is the AF area register option which allows you to switch between multiple AF systems, single point to zone for example. This can be of some use, though again I only use it on occasion.

 

Looking first within the system itself. The 3rd gen again is a step above the previous, be it AF or stabilization. This I tested on the X-T3 with the 200mm f/2, not an ergonomically ideal combo.

Now comparing Vs other systems. Fuji is first and foremost fun to use. Now that that is out of the way, the 35mm film has always been a sweet spot between negative size, IQ and ease of use. This is still the case with digital sensors. Smaller sensors are fine if you are willing to accept their flaws, and no, DoF is NOT one of them. You will see less resolving power over all and at times increase in noise.

Given that price point is not all that different from FF with higher end models I think it's safe to say that the 35mm sensor will be the better option.

 

Thats interesting, the canon bodies you have listed is rated at max flash synch speed at 1/200 just like the d750, however the a7 iii, a7r iii and d850 is rated at 1/250. I personally use godox and would not be surprised if there is a discrepency between max flash synch speeds.

However i will disagree with you on one thing, the difference between 1/200 and 1/320 could be critical for severwl reasons.

1. When using a hint of flash for more naturallly lit looks the extra speed on the shutter can help freeze movement better i.e. Walking/walking fast motion in shots.

2. When shooting in high noon day light and trying to expose for the sky as your ambient exposure you will need to reduce iso or narrow down your apperture which will in turn reduce your flash exposure but wiht the 1/320 shutter you can shave 2/3 stops bumb in flash power (if you have the headroom in the flash at all) and just increase shutter speed from 1/200 to 1/320. This could be the difference between need a 250w strobe or 500w strobe or a 1000w strobe depending on your specific task.

3. Refresh and recycle times, linked to the point above whe. Shooting dramstic images you need less flash power when trying to underexpose the ambient thus you will have higher rexycle times which can be critical to some shoots.

 

I just double checked, atleast the EOS R files, it did sync at 1/250. There a bit of the black banding when I shot on location and it was low key (I over exposed it in post to check). The studio shots not really as much. Will take some time to track down the DSLR files how ever. The banding is much less significant than what I see on the Sony however.

With regards to SS, You have a point. I mostly work in a controlled way and can plan when to shoot so I don't feel the weight of it as much. If I'm in the studio I kill the ambient, if I'm outdoors I more often than not shoot in the evenings so its more slow SS than anything else.

How much power are you using @ noon and with which modifier if I may ask?

Edit:

I also checked some shots with the EOS R I shot when testing a strobe from a Chinese manufacturer named Golden Eagle. Again sync'd at 1/250 without HSS. Which is interesting.

 

Thanks so much @Kocaman for your feedback. I will buy these in Europe probably in Switzerland. A fashion photographer told me that the Samyang 85 1.4 is a better choice for photography in the 85mm range. He also did advice me to have a look at the 90mm 2.8 macro. Do you have any experience with the Samyang for photo or video ? The AF seems to be better in video with the Sony 85mm.
For a wider lens than a 35mm what would you advice me ? There is also the Sigma 14-24mm zoom but it is highly expensive and huge. What do you mean by grey market ? Buy the items used ?

 

The 85 f1.8 has faster and more consistent AF in stills and its significantly better in video compared to samyang. I am thinking about the samyang too but samyang has quality control issues which is pushing me towards the 85 1.8. This means that is likely to have inconsistent af, off centered, poor sharpness in bad copies. I heard that some people had to go through 3-4 lenses to receive a good one and I don't know if that hassle is worth it. I can get the 85 1.8 for 375, the samyang is £479 i think. Samyang also produces colour temp too warm which can be easily fixable but its still extra hassle. on the plus side, it has nice bokeh and has better weather sealing.

For wide angle sony lenses that is budget friendy I recommend the 28mm F2. That is decent alternative to the sony 35mm 1.8. The 16-35 f2.8 gm is good too but the new sigma 14-24 is the sharpest. If you are on a budget and want zoom take a look into tamron 17-28 f2.8 that should be on good offers right now thanks to black friday. So yeah budget options tamron ultra wide angle zoom or the 28mm f2.

When i mean grey market, its buying from markets such as hong kong. Its usually cheaper. The sony a7r iii is 2,500 pounds in the uk, on grey its 1600 pounds.

 

I can get the Sony 85 1.8 for 499,00€ and Samyang 85 for 570,00€. The price difference is minimal. I'm talking in Euro not in CHF so it is easier for everyone . The Sony 85 1.4 is too big, too lourd and a waste of money in the end. I want to invest in something solid and future proof, don't want the cheapest and don't need the most expensive stuff.
Were do you get the 85 1.8 for 375 ? That's a pretty decent price. On amazon UK it's 499£.
Do you have special sites for grey market HK or should I just look on ebay ? What about warranty & custom fees if they open the parcel ?

 

Ill get back to you with the options.

If you really wantes a gm portat lens i would go with 135 f1.8 gm and the 85 1.8 buying both on grey is a good option and you will more or less have a complete portrait lens setup. The 135 in incredibly sharp